National Park & Wild Life Sanctuaries in the Gal Oya Valley

 

 

Entrance to Gal Oya National Park

From Loris Magazine Vol. VII No. 3 June 1956

 

National Park and Wild Life Sanctuaries

in the Gal Oya Valley

By R. W. SZECHOWYCZ, DSc. (Eng.)

Courtesy Andreas Szechowycz, Roman’s son

Introduction

HYDRO-ELECTRICITY combined with irrigation is a tool of modern progress. At the same time this progress is responsible for the destruction of the natural association of plants and animals which has established itself during centuries past. Effects of such schemes on nature vary according to locality, and although irrigation means more agriculture and hence bigger forest clearings, the effect on the balance of nature is estimated nearly always to be favourable. Such schemes benefit human economy, diminish floods, create beautiful artificial reservoirs, improve the micro- `lima, provide suitable conditions for aquatic birds and the angler, and help tourism. They promote aquatic sports and provide water— without which plant and animal life would be impossible. Scientific research is, however, the basis of all progress. Hence before planning, a strict and careful examination of conditions in areas, by the landscape architect, the fauna and flora protectionist, the forester, the agronomist and the hydraulic engineer, is required.

In the majority of cases, the dam builder, all over the world, is prepared to co-operate with the naturalist in order to avoid, as far as possible, the destruction of the fauna and .flora. Nature, however, is not merely a collection of plants and animals. It is a " living organism”, where the rules of interdependency have to be strictly observed. When the balance, established through centuries, is destroyed, it takes time for a new climate to be established, due to the changed conditions brought about by clearing of large forest areas, by submerging large areas under reservoirs and by colonization.

An ecological law states that every species in a community must have some effect on other members of this community. The " destroyer " of wild life ",man is one species of such a community and when this " species " increases, wild life decreases ; and at this time the demand for wild life—sport, food, furs, etc.—increases. To meet human needs, the available wild life is not sufficient, and only proper wild life management can bring about an increase of wild life and prevent its total extinction.

Except for biological and social factors which make wild life important and interesting, the economic reasons cannot be overlooked. Wild life is the biggest attraction to the tourist, and " the tourist " means money ; it means foreign currency and employment for hundreds. In the U.S.A., in states such as Minnesota, for instance, wild life has long been recognized for its monetary value. Revenue realized, by the U.S.A., by the sale of ammuni­tion, guns, camp equipment, and the issue of licences for shooting and fishing, runs into millions of dollars. Remove the attraction, and this inflow of money ceases. Show a tourist the tail of a wild elephant, and he starts counting the time from this event.

Wild life management is a science, which reaches its target by providing better conditions for undomesticated vertebrate animals, and pro­tection against man. Any attempt to check the effects of this management is a difficult task. The proper way would be to make a census of wild animals at intervals ; even this, however, would produce only approximate figures, even if confined to a few species only. Hence only general information on the increase and decrease of the wild life population is available in the majority of cases. Every form of life has value and interest of some sort. Even the most insignificant creatures may be found to exercise the most profound influences upon mankind and have to be taken into account. Were it not for the numerous poisonous snakes in the Island, the " rabbit plague " would be astounding—even worse than in Australia—not to mention the unchecked increase of other vermin like rats, that would result.

The biggest water storage reservoir in Ceylon —The Senanayake Samudra—was created in 1951 by damming the Gal Oya river at Inginiya­gala and submerging part of the Gal' Oya Valley and the valleys of its tributaries—the Sallakka Oya, Balabedde Oya and the Gurulu Oya (these ancient names have now disappeared from the new maps of Ceylon). The water storage of this reservoir is 770,000 acre feet and the water spread 22,000 acres.

 

Sportsmen.

As was planned, the develop­ment of large areas below the dam brought about the clearing of jungle—the refuge of wild animals. In addition to large scale clear­ings, the indiscriminate shooting of animals done in the first years for food and fun, mostly by inexperienced "used to town life" field and office staff employed by the Gal Oya Board, decimated the, wild life in the " Valley." These " Sportsmen " were able to shoot deer; sambhur and pig only at night from vehicles and they did not care or were too afraid to follow a wounded animal and put it out of pain, even if it was a few feet off the road in the jungle ; consequently the Sportsman " very probably collected not more than one animal for every five destroyed. At this stage the Fauna and Flora Ordinance was not included in the Gal Oya Development Board Act—and the Board's officers were not empowered to stop this practice. The King (Warden of Wild Life and his staff) was far away and God was very high, hence the law was not observed. Since 20th April, 1953, th_e problems in connection with the management of wildlife were transferred to the Board and a special Wild Life Section was created, as a part of the Forest Branch, for wild life manage­ment.

Reserves

 To compensate the losses in wild life, the Gal Oya Development Board decided to proclaim certain areas for the protection of its Fauna. From 12th February, 1954—by Gazette, No. 10,640 of  12th February, 1954— there are, in the " Valley," a National Park (100 square miles) and three Sanctuaries, namely : (a) North and West of the reservoir the Amparai Wild Life Sanctuary (47.7 square ^­miles) ; (b) South and West of the reservoir the Sellakka Oya Wild Life Sanctuary (59 square miles) ; and (c) the water-shed of the reservoir itself—the Senanayake Samudra Wild Life Sanctuary (35.8 square miles). The total area demarcated for the preservation of wild life  in the " Valley " is 242.5 square miles, corresponding to 155,200 acres.

 

Snakes

The reservoir started filling in Octo­ber, 1951. In a few days I had proof of how nature's balance was upset. I landed by boat on one of the islands in the newly-created reservoir with the idea of inspecting the area for wild animals, which may have been marooned. I have seen action in World War II, but never did I get a bigger shock till the day of this inspection, when I was literally  surrounded by snakes of various lengths, I walked several yards into the island. It was  like a snake pit. The gradual rise of the water level forced the vermin to retreat to higher places. Finally the highest place became an island. If my running was timed, I would probably be a world champion. I was inter­ested to see what would happen to this collection of snakes in time to come, and inspected the island at intervals, very carefully, of course. After a short period, nature's balance was re-attained, and no more snakes were found on those islands, than in other forests. Most probably the bigger ones consumed the smaller, and some of them left the islands by swimming across the reservoir.

Birds.

Only a small part of the reservoir bed was cleared of the forest, for landscape, in areas adjoining the dam ; and in areas along the rivers, for navigation. The unfelled jungle is today submerged, and as the trees are often higher than the depth of the water, their crowns are not submerged. In the first two years those trees were still strong and were excellent nesting places for big water birds like pelicans and painted storks. It was an interesting sight to observe the colonies of birds consisting of  more than 500 pelicans, nesting in small areas ; and in the entire reservoir more than 2,000 pelicans' nests and more than 150 painted storks' nests were estimated. I have counted not less than 15 nests on one single tree. How­ever, with time the branches of dead trees became fragile—not strong enough to support the nests with the old and young pelicans—with the result that the pelicans and painted storks, which were seen in large numbers in the past, are now rare. They do not nest in the adjoining forests, as their nests have to be built over the water to enable the young ones to reach this element direct from the nest.

In spite of the fact that pelican nesting is now not so common, one can often observe big flocks of pelicans fishing, only during the dry season, when the water level is low in the small tanks (Amparai, Kondawatawan, Aligalge, Himi­durawa, Weragoda, Andal Oya, Navakiri Aru, Irrakkamam, etc.), where feeding is much easier  for pelicans, etc.. In addition to big flocks of pelicans, enormous colonies of cor­morants and shags, and to a lesser degree, egrets, grey heron, eagles and snake birds are still found during the nesting season (March—June) on the tree tops within the reservoir. The number of these birds can now be counted in thousands and when further development takes place on the same lines, it will become a problem. Other birds like kingfishers, fish-hawks, herons, hornbills, etc., are common as well. Very often crows build their nests close by and rob eggs and young ones from the nests of other birds. This is one of the examples of symbiosis or natural relationship.

 

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"Enormous colonies of cormorants, egrets and snake birds arc found during the nesting season. The number of those birds can now be counted in thousands and when further development takes place on the same lines it will become a problem."

Fish.

Fishing in the reservoir is very difficult, due to submerged trees. The abundance of water birds, which often daily consume five . ' times their weight in fish, shows that fish are plentiful. The consumed fish, however, are ,i not lost to the water community. The digestive system of the water bird is quite primitive and the food returns back in the form of droppings. Every bird is like a living quasi-manure factory, providing the manure for green algae—which again is consumed by fish. Introduced exotics - ­Tilapia Mossambica and Gourami—have already become well established, and a great number of indigenous fresh water fish in Ceylon waters are found in the reservoir. The carnivorous " Vallaya " and " Lula " are well represented, while " Pethiya " and " Korali " are plentiful.

 

Pistia.

In 1953 it was observed that the pernicious water weed—Pistia stratiotes—started to spread rapidly and certain parts of the water areas were entirely covered with a thick green carpet of this weed. It was suspected that this weed was introduced into the reservoir by birds. The necessity for its eradication was pointed out by a former Minister, Mr. Dudley Senana­yake, when on his visit to the " Valley " he observed Pistia plants floating close to the Inginiyagala Dam. This task was entrusted to the Forest and Wild Life Branch, and by spray­ing and hand collection from boats it was possible, not only to stop further development, but to eradicate completely, this weed, from nearly the entire reservoir. The water level in the reservoir drops in the dry season—nearly 30 feet below spill level. This is an important  factor in the building up of plant communities, as during this period, when the trees growing close to the reservoir require water it is far away. The influence of the reservoir on the water table in those seasons is nil, and this high fluctuation does not promote the develop­ment of water plants other than those that float. It is even suspected that the herbi­vorous exotic fish, Tilapia and Gourami, intro­duced in 1951, not having other vegetable matter for food, contributed to the eradication of Pistia. Observations are in hand to confirm this theory. In any case the spread of filaria carrying mosquitoes, which breed on Pistia and are responsible for Elephantiasis infection, has been checked.

Crocodiles.

Monitor lizards were observed very often on the edge of the water. Several crocodiles were reported to have been seen on the islands. Before the reservoir was created, I have seen some of them in small ranks now submerged in the present tank bed area. Those must be now the patriarchs of the present crocodile breed. Only the Mud Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) is found in the reservoir, and this species is satisfied with preying on water birds and fish, avoiding man. The Swamp Crocodile (Oophelis porosus), dangerous to man, is fortu­nately absent in the reservoir.

Scenery.

The reservoir, when viewed from the dam at Inginiyagala, is not an impressive sight. In spite of the fact that the water spread is the biggest in the Island of Ceylon, only approximately six square miles (1/6th of the reservoir) is visible from the top of the bund. The rest is hidden by the hills and the scattered islands. Only a small part of the former Gurulu Oya Valley and nothing of the former Sellakka Oya and the Balabedde Oya Valleys are to be seen. To see the reservoir and its beauty one must go on the reservoir by boat. For official work in the reservoir and the catch­ment area, for the benefit of visitors to the " Valley " and for the benefit of " His Majesty the Tourist," two launches and several boats—equipped with out-board motors—are available, and I often feel I am an " Admiral." A small floating house awaits those who like to spend some time observing the water birds and their fishing habits, those interested in rod fishing or those who wish to spend a few hours, or even days, far away from noisy civilization.

"The scenery round the reservoir, viewed from a boat, is one of the most beautiful in Ceylon" and "For the benefit of visitors and for the benefit of 'His Majesty the Tourist' two launches and several boats, equipped with out boat motors, are available."

The scenery round the reservoir, viewed from a boat, is one of the most beautiful in Ceylon. To the West, the Inginiyagala hill, which has become the emblem of the Gal Oya Scheme, proudly faces the reservoir. Further South, on the first plain, the Palang Oya hill, like a fat round lady, spreads itself over the jungle. The Wadinagala hill, standing further South, raises its majestic head into the sky. On the second plain in the South, the flat top of Westminster Abbey recalls the days when centuries ago, this area was of political importance and during which time a fortress was built on its summit. North and East, several ranges of hills, both small and large, are scattered over the land­scape as though planted by a talented landscape architect. On the horizon, to the West, the clearly visible Uva hills catch the eye. The reservoir is surrounded by jungle, and in several places a green carpet is spread below the park­ like scattered trees of Savannah Forest—the home of the elephant and other wild animals.

 

Malaria Control.

In spite of the fact that a vast area is now submerged, it is surprising that practically no mosquitoes are found close to the reservoir. This can be attributed to the fact that the reservoir is quite deep (its deepest point, close to the dam, being 110 feet  at full spill level) ; there are plenty of fish which feed on the larvae ; and due to the fluctuation of the water level, water weeds are practically non-­existent. Malarial fever, before the reservoir was created, was a serious menace to the resi­dents of the present' tank bed area and its sur­roundings. On several occasions more than half of the labour force engaged in clearing jungle and in timber extraction was affected. A field hospital was erected where labourers were treated by the Field Officers, as the hospital at Inginiyagala was overcrowded. Several labourers deserted their posts and did not return. The absence of mosquitoes at the pre­sent, is one of the favourable changes in Nature after the dam was built.

Veddahs.

The present tank bed and its sur­roundings was a hiding place of the famous veddah outcast, Tissahamy, who was wanted by the Police for murder. He was able, for more than ten years, to avoid capture in those inaccessible jungles ; at the end of which period, he surrendered. (See " Savage Sanctuary " by Dr. R. L. Spittel). Till today, several Veddah families are living in the area, and as their main food is the flesh of wild animals, they are a permanent menace to wild life, and all efforts are being made to re-settle them out­side the National Park ; although in a way they are an added attraction to visitors.

 

Climate.

It will be too early at this stage to make any statements about the climatic changes that have come about after the reservoir was created. It is a fact, however, that at pre­sent the climate is much cooler than in the past. It is hoped that it will be a permanent feature. Even during the summer, when the thermometer often shows 95°F., the air is dry and not sticky. Beautiful sunsets, accompanied by a cool breeze from the reservoir, make a visit to the " Valley " worth while. The land­scape below the dam is now being gradually developed by the Board's Horticulturist, Muda­liyar Alex de Sylva. A small, but nicely arranged, rock garden has an interesting collec­tion of both Dry and Wet Zone flowering plants ; and the collection of orchids, mostly local varieties, can lay claims to being one of the best in the Island.

 

Animal Population.

The area around the reser­voir was proclaimed a National Park (100 sq. miles) in February, 1954. It is a strip of land, round the reservoir, two to four miles wide. Conditions in those areas changed, after the creation of the reservoir, for the benefit of wild life. Three essentials for its development, are required—(1) cover, (2) food, and (3) water. The cover is the " home " of animals, where they rest, breed and have protection against adverse conditions. But this home must be close to " food " and " water. Deer, for example, never move from an area more than two to three miles ; and when food and water are lacking within this circle, due to drought, they perish. Previously during the dry season all streams and rivulets ran completely dry. The conditions now prevailing are such that it is expected that more animals from other areas will migrate to the vicinity of the reser­voir, as has been already confirmed, by observa­tions. There is a general belief that prior to the invasion of man into the Gal Oya Valley, wild life was plentiful, but it was not so, wild life was really plentiful, but only around the existing man-created water storage tanks at Amparai, Kondawatawan, Irrakkamam, etc. These tanks were, however, built long ago by man. In other parts of the jungle, due to the scarcity of water in the dry season, when all water-courses usually ran completely dry, wild life was very scarce, and when found were only those animals dependent on water direct from tanks or water released from tanks. In August, 1955, for the first time since the reservoir was created, two large herds of elephants (one con­sisting of 25 elephants, including a tusker and two baby elephants and the other consisting of 14 elephants including one baby elephant) were observed in the Gurulu Oya Valley on the periphery of the reservoir. Both herds were seen from boats. Very often single elephants came down to water, usually shortly before sunset, and these have been seen by the wild life staff and visitors during boating trips. Availability of water in the Right Bank Channel has also attracted elephants to the vicinity of Inginiyagala. They come out daily into the open during the dry season, and scores of visitors have seen them. Those animals have now become semi-tame and do not take any notice of the public. Other animals often seen are :—wild buffaloes, deer and sambhur. The total number of elephants within the National Park is difficult to estimate due to their migratory habits. Rough calculations show that their number is in the vicinity of sixty ; in the whole " Valley," 150 elephants are estimated. The reservoir itself has created no obstacle to the movement of wild animals. On one occasion one elephant was observed 'swimming across the reservoir, and on another a sounder of wild boar. Wild buffaloes are often seen crossing from shore to shore. On yet another occasion a five-foot cobra was seen  swimming across.

 

The role that wild life plays in soil conservation problems is well known, as the best method of soil conservation is to keep the area under adequate plant cover, and wild life management helps in that : " a home for wild life," without exception, is an area covered with vegetation. The interests of the -" Wild Life Man " and the " Soil Conservationist, though different, are parallel ; and the objectives of both have to be obtained by the same operations. There is, however, conflict between  the Wild Life Protectionist  and the Soil Conservationist. The latter and the Forester consider grassland fires a destructive factor, and all efforts are made to prevent this phenomenon. The former encourages fires, as they help to provide more food by destroying the old grass and creating. park-like plant communities—Savannahs. To prevent grassland fires, it means changing grassland into jungle or bush, but this will result in the migration of all animals with grazing habits, including the elephant, which strays into the jungle only to rest. Fortunately, in the Gal Oya Valley,  this problem of preventing grassland fires, in the majority of areas, is only an academical one. It is beyond human power to check the annual -'' fires brought about by villagers, in order to increase the extent of grazing ground for their cattle ; to make travelling on foot easier and ,safer (snakes) and to make the collection of ,  bulu " and " aralu " seeds easy. These seeds are used for medicinal purposes and are a catch crop for the jungle dweller. The fires which are started far away spread fast and reach the areas comprising the National Park, thus solving the conflict between the two types of protectionists. The former is happy and the latter has a clear conscience. In the distribution of wild life in any area, the so-called " edge effect " plays a very important role. The edge effect is due to the fact that animals of all species, both big and small, select the line where two different types of vegetation meet, as their " home." A margin between forest and field under agriculture ; - a margin where grassland touches the jungle or a margin where savannah forest changes into  jungle, would be their most popular " home." This explains why one can travel miles across " Damana " land in the Nilgala talawas, within the National Park, and still not come across any birds or deer. Wild life is the phenomenon of the " edge."

 

Sanctuaries.

In addition to the Senanayake  Samudra Sanctuary, a 59 square mile area South of the National Park has been proclaimed the South Western Sanctuary. This is to be re- designated the Sellakka Oya Sanctuary. In this area the human population, of approximately 2,000, live mostly on shifting cultivation (chenas). The shooting of animals is allowed for the protection of crops. In this area the construction of the Palang Oya Detention Reservoir, with an expected water spread of 12 square miles, is in hand. It will create, in the future, facilities for the preservation of wild life as the vicinity of this proposed reservoir will be free of human beings. This area was and still is " elephant country." It is not uncommon, when driving after sunset, to meet this colossus on the road. On the old 16 chains to an inch topo—surveying maps—the shooting boxes of such famous elephant hunters, of the last century, as Major Rogers (who had to his credit more than 1,400 elephants and was as a punishment " killed by lightning at the resthouse at Haputale) and of the founder of Nuwara Eliya, Sir Samuel Baker, who after gaining experience in Ceylon became the Governor of Sudan, are marked in the Nilgala area.

 

WILD LIFE SANCTUARIES IN THE GAL OYA VALLEY

 

 

 

 To the North and East of the National Park is the North Eastern Sanctuary (47 square miles), which is to be re-named the Amparai Sanctuary. This Sanctuary is interesting in that it includes many irrigation tanks, where bird life is plentiful, namely, the Amparai, Konda-watawan, Aligalge and Himidurawa tanks. The proposed Namal Oya Detention Reservoir will also be located within this Sanctuary. Steps are in hand to extend the present area of this Sanctuary' by including part of the Nuwaragala - a Forest Reserve and the new Navikiri Aru tank. The historic Deega Vapi tank (abandoned from the time of King Dutugemunu) and the present Mahakandiya tank also fall within this Sanctuary. Wild life in these areas is fairly plentiful.

 

Colonization and its Effect on Animals.

Where such a vast colonization scheme in former jungle areas, namely the present Gal Oya Valley, was and is in progress, conflict between the intruder—man—and the former unrestricted dweller of the area—the wild animal—has to be expected. The damage to crops, immediately following the settling of the colonists, is considerable ; but with time the animals realize that they are in competition with man and are on the losing side, and consequently retreat further into existing jungles. A few people, however, have paid with their lives for the privilege of becoming colonists. Five of them were killed by wild elephants and one by a wild buffalo. By erecting electrical fences and by patrolling, the Wild Life Section is doing its best to keep away the wild animals, of which the elephant is the most destructive, from cultivated areas. Since the Board took over the management of the Fauna and Flora in, the " Valley," twelve elephants were shot and killed by villagers in the protection of their crops and in self-defense. In one case a Forest Officer destroyed a killer-rogue.

 

The settlement of colonists has brought changes, in that primaeval wilderness has given way to agriculture. The larger species of wild animals, in the new development areas, are at present reduced to scattered remnants, which have been driven out of their original habitat into adjoining forest areas. For certain wild life species, however, especially birds, the newly created conditions in an agricultural environment are ideal for their development. The interspersion of forest (wind belts, irrigation reservations, etc.), with land under agriculture (edge effect) ; the first producing shelter and the second food, .resulted in a great in-crease of bird life. The importance of this phenomenon for agriculture cannot be over-looked. Birds are the greatest enemy of in-sects, which if allowed to develop unchecked may become in the " Valley "—as practice has shown in other parts of the world—the greatest destroyer of crops; and consequently make the lives of men extremely difficult ; but this role of the birds is very often. overlooked by the public.

 

Wild Life Management.

Wild life management in the " Valley " at present is to take suitable steps to increase the wild life population. This is necessary as the indiscriminate shooting in the past has taken its toll of wild animals. Two methods have been adopted—first, to stop further destruction of animals, and secondly, by providing animals with their natural environments. The direct control of animals, i.e., thinning, does not arise at the present.

 

The Board has created an Advisory Council to deal with the problems relating to wild life in the " Valley." The following gentlemen, who are keenly interested in the preservation of wild life, have accepted office :—the Hon. Minister of Justice, Mr. E. B. Wikramanayake ; the Warden, Department of Wild Life, Mr. C. W. Nicholas ; Dr. R. L. Spittel (the well-known author and scientist) and the elephant expert, Dissawa S. A. I. Elapata. The problems are discussed with the Chairman of the Gal Oya Development Board, Mr. K. Kanagasundaram, in the chair, at special meetings at which the Officer-in-Charge of Wild Life in the " Valley," Mr. T. Meynert and the writer, who acts as District Warden, are present.

 

It will therefore be seen, from the foregoing that the balance of Nature within the National Park and Sanctuaries, and in the New Development areas is still upset. The development of these areas is still in progress. However, it is beyond dispute that these " living laboratories "—the National Park and Sanctuaries—will become, in time, more and more popular, not only for the scientist but also for the lover of Nature, who prefers to observe wild animals in their natural environment and not behind bars in a zoo or in a circus—and breathe at the same time the fresh air, which only the greenery of the forest can provide. In a short time, a new road from Inginiyagala to Siyambalanduwa will be constructed ; and this road will shorten the distance to Colombo by 70 miles. It is expected that, with. the completion of this road, the number of visitors to the " Valley "—quite considerable at present—will double itself. At Inginiyagala, there is an excellent Resthouse (16 rooms), probably the best in the Island. Fishing, Swimming, and Boating are available. There is also a flood-lit tennis court, an excellent bar and still better company -(I do not mean by this, myself) to keep the visitors happy.

 

 

LORIS, June, 1956

Elephant Swims

Sir, After sending you my article dealing with Wild Life in the Gal Oya Valley, I witnessed a very interesting incident worth recording. On 19th. March, 1956, about 5.30 p.m., during one of my routine inspections on the Senanayake Samudra Reservoir, I noticed an elephant approximately 10 ft. in height approaching the edge of the water from the jungle. To my surprise the elephant quietly waded through the water and started slowly swimming across the Reservoir to a point on the opposite shore which is over mile away. Only a small portion of the top of his head was visible but at intervals of approximately 20 seconds he raised his trunk out of the water (like the snorkel of a three-quarter mile submarine) for respiration. Progress was quite slow—and it took him roughly 20 minutes to reach the opposite shore. This event was witnessed by the Commissioner of Income Tax, Mr. C. A. Speldewinde and the Assistant Secretary of Gal Oya Development Board, Mr. G. A. H. Wille, with me on this inspection. We watched the elephant from a distance , of approximately 200 yards from a boat. Any attempt to get closer, we felt, would have scared the animal and thereby the chance of other people observing a similar incident would have been lost.

DR. R. W. SZECHOWYCZ.

Inginiyagala.